This article is to provide information on the basics of wading boots, the types of soles as well as lacing systems and add-ons like studs. ...
This article is to provide information on the basics of wading boots, the types of soles as well as lacing systems and add-ons like studs. While we will mention certain brands or models, this is aimed to help you learn about the basics, not an endorsement of any particular boot. To see all of our waders and boots, you can click here.
Boots
Wading boots are a 100% must-have for any halfway serious fly angler, except for maybe those lucky anglers that live in the tropics...
 |
| Jeff forgot his boots and used duct tape |
Jeff forgot his boots one day on a coastal stream and being an hour from his boots, we opted for duct tape on his slippers. It is not a recommended method. I do believe he made it all day without falling, although it did require several rounds of tape.
Wading boots are meant to get wet and be wet for an extended period of time. The materials are built to hold up in a cycle of wet and dry when other materials would fail. The materials tend to stay rigid when wet and do not become soggy, swollen or uncomfortable. They are also built to be worn over waders and will fit accordingly.
Laces, BOA or otherwise:
 |
| BOA Lacing System |
Some boots feature a BOA lacing system. Its pretty nice. There is a little metal lace that gets tightened up with a crank-knob. Boots go on much quicker and can be tightened up with one hand. It is a big time saver. The drawback is that if you break a BOA lace, it can take 20 minutes or more to replace, and that is IF you remembered to bring that spare lace that was included with the boots. But how many of us bring a spare boot lace fishing? Probably should add that to the pack.
These BOA systems have also been known to get clogged with silt if you are
an angler that wades into the murky glacial rivers of the west. We have
plenty of those right here. I love my BOA boots (Korkers Devils Canyon) and I make sure to wash out the BOA crank at
least twice a season. Overall, the benefits far outweigh the drawbacks, especially if you keep them clean and inspect the lace for wear occasionally. A worthy upgrade if you have the money to invest.
Features
|
| Darkhorse has extra soles and BOA - nice features |
What makes a boot cheaper or more expensive? Features like the BOA lacing system are found on top end boots, but the lower end boots are still plenty nice these days. Lower end models tend to have features like cloth lace eyelets, where mid-priced boots may have more traditional metal lace eyelets and top-end boots will have bearings and pulleys to help keep those laces tight.
In addition, lower-priced boots can have more stitching lines, where more expensive boots tend to have less stitching. Stitches are one of the failure points, so having fewer, larger pieces of fabric can increase the cost to manufacture, but will increase durability as well. Fabric quality tends to increase with price as well. A top end boot should last longer than the entry-level models.
Many lower-priced boots have a shorter ankle collar. This could mean less ankle support in exchange for a lower price point (due to less materials).
The last feature is comfort, or ease of use. Expensive boots tend to just be more comfortable, easier to put on, and more supportive to use. My Devil's Canyon boots are soooo easy to put on. I love having them on river trips, where I can throw them on and fish for 30 minutes, then take them off easily.
Soles
 |
| Felt is still #1 |
Korkers boots include an interchangeable sole system. This typically includes two sets of interchangeable soles, with the ability to add a variety of other specialty soles. If you are unfamiliar with Korkers system, you can learn about that here.
Many boot models come with either rubber soles
or felt soles, although some models are only available with one option.
Some manufacturers are leaning towards rubber soles as their standard
sole, while others still lean on felt.
Over the years, some brands have gone away from felt only to come back again or vice-versa. There was a big push in the late 1990s and early 2000s to get rid of felt soles altogether, and it backfired as rubber soles from that era were less than adequate compared to felt. As technology in rubber compounds improves, there is another mini push by boot manufacturers to limit felt boots. Orvis only offers felt on their two lowest priced boot models for 2021, with rubber soles being the only option on their top-end boots now.
Felt Soles
Felt
is a great material for slippery rivers. Its lightweight, cheap to produce, quite grippy
on slick rocks and provides good traction for wading in a river. It
has been the industry standard for years. Although it is banned in
some states, it is still quite popular (where legal) and shows no sign of slowing
down as the number one choice of anglers (not always of the manufacturers). A basic felt sole is grippier in the water than something like a water sandal (Teva or Chaco) or a really basic rubber sole.
Felt Drawbacks
Beyond the chance for transporting invasive aquatic invertebrates, felt has a few other drawbacks. The first is that felt is very slick in mud and wet grass. This can be a problem if you spend any time walking to get to the river.
A second issue involves snow. Snow will build up on felt rather quickly and requires constant kicking, scraping or hitting it off the bottom of your boots. It is very annoying, uncomfortable and somewhat dangerous as you are essentially creating a thick layer of ice as your contact with the ground, or in this case, more ice and snow. It is very, very slippery and I shudder thinking about it.A third is that felt does wear down quicker than other materials. This wear on your boots increases dramatically if your favorite fishing hole is a mile away from the parking area. While you can, in theory, replace the felt on a standard pair of boots, I have never seen a replacement felt sole stay on the bottom of the boot for very long. So you can end up with a pair of boots that is in otherwise good shape except for having virtually no felt left on the bottom.
Rubber Soles
That leaves rubber soles to consider. Technology has come a long ways with rubber soles and they are now preferred by many anglers. Rubber material will last longer than felt and the newer generation of rubber soles feature more aggressive treads that are far more grippy than past iterations. Think of it like this; old style rubber soles are like balding street tires, while the newer generation of rubber soles are like off-road mud tires. All you have to do is look at the tread of the new Orvis Pro Boot vs the old rubber soled boots from 20 years ago. Seriously, its mud tires vs racing slicks..
I bought a pair of rubber soled boots in 2002 when the sales rep told us that a total US felt ban was imminent. I believed him and bought those "new and improved" rubber soled boots. They were the slickest, most unsafe boots I had ever worn. I spent months sliding around on trout streams of the Rockies before moving back to felt and feeling a sense of security return to my life. Luckily, new rubber soles are much better than those.
 |
| Orvis Pro Boot - Michelin Rubber Sole |
With all of the new developments in rubber soles, they are now becoming really appealing to many anglers today when they would have not considered rubber soles years ago.
Rubber Drawbacks
While the grip of a rubber soled boot has increased over recent years, rubber is still heavier than felt and it can be quite noticeable, especially at the end of a long day of hiking up and down a river with heavy boots. The thing about rubber is that it is not all equal. A felt sole is pretty darn universal, but rubber soles can have great variation among brands, treads, styles, etc....
For example, the standard "kling-on" sole that comes with Korkers boots is not super grippy (it's more than adequate for most situations), but the Studded Idropgrip sole is the straight up grippiest sole that I have used and I will continue to use them. The standard kling-on soles are not great on slick rocks, but the Idrogrip sole eats up slick rocks for breakfast.
Orvis PRO series boot is another great boot with a solid rubber sole. It come with a sole that is made by Michelin Tire Company. This took years of collaboration between Orvis and Michelin to develop this rubber compound and tread. It is very grippy and will compete with any felt or rubber sole on the market, while maintaining a long lifespan on the tread and a nice reduction in weight over previous rubber soles.
Comfort vs Function
Finding that balance between comfort, durability and support is key. I have had boots that were really comfortable that fell apart quickly. I also currently own a pair of (unnamed brand) boots that I have had almost 10 years. They still look brand new. They are very stiff, really uncomfortable, but I expect that they will last forever because the material is really stiff and durable. I use them occasionally anyways. Mostly because I am disorganized, so I have several pairs wading boots sorta scattered between the basement, carport and storage shed. I tend to take the ones I find first when I am in a hurry.
Studs
Just like tires,
you can add studs to boots to increase the grip in slippery
conditions. Basic DIY studs are essentially sheet metal screws that are installed into the soles. There are a few other options for studs beyond the traditional screw style, although the basic studs like these from Orvis work just fine for 95% of anglers.
For those 5% that need something more grippy that screw-in studs, there are more options.
 |
| Korkers Triple Threat Aluminum Bars |
Aluminum tends to have a better grip on rocks that steel. There are aluminum bars and big aluminum pucks and various other aluminum studs that will help your boot grip to rocks. They do wear out quicker than steel, but they grip quite a bit more, like goats on the side of a mountain grippy.
One drawback to bigger aluminum options is that boots become uncomfortable at a certain point when there is too much on the bottom. You end up walking on the metal bars instead of the ground. Hiking to the river becomes a little less enjoyable. If you drive right to your favorite, super-slick spot, then aluminum bars or pucks may be right up your alley.
One more thing to consider with studs is that many boat owners do not want your studs scratching up their boat floors. Gas station owners aren't too happy about them either....
Sizing
Just like with waders, boots should not be too tight. They are meant to be worn over the top of waders with thicker socks, so that is how you should try them on. Most anglers end up with a pair of boots a half or whole size up from their regular street shoes, but not all. Each brand will have a sizing chart and they tend to be pretty accurate for most anglers. If in doubt, go a little big and wear thicker socks. Most would rather have toasty warm feet than icy cold feet. Boots that are too tight will restrict circulation and your feet will be cold, colder if you have to wear thinner socks in order to fit into the boots. Redington does (as of 2021) size their boots to match a street shoe size, while Orvis and Korkers among others tend to suggest going up a size.
Women's Boots
 |
| Korkers Buckskin Mary Women's boot |
With an increase in female anglers, there are now some really good options for women's wading boots including sizes that provides a better fit for more anglers. There had previously been a lack of sizes, styles and features. Not ideal at all. There are now actual options for female anglers. Brands such as Orvis and Korkers have several wading boot options at different price points. These brands have spent some good time and money developing boots that fit well, as well as having features and designs that are appealing.
Ankle Support
One more thing to consider is ankle support. Some boots have a thick, stiff "upper" section that provides good ankle support. Ankle support equals safer wading. So adding a stiff upper section can increase ankle support, but it also can make those boots less comfortable. Some boots add padding around the collar on the top of the ankle. So adding padding will make them harder to get into as well as adding some weight. So good, solid upper ankle support can come at a cost of ease.
Other boots feature a "glove-like" fit. The Devil's Canyon boots are a good example of that. The upper section is tall and thin, but it is flexible. The overall ankle support is nowhere near where it is in some other boots, but the Devils Canyon is far easier to get on and off. If you need the ankle support, look for one with a high upper section and consider the amount of cushioning around that support.
Care
Your boots will last longer if they are properly cared for. That involves washing them off and letting them dry out in between days of fishing. I know, right? So I should not leave my boots in the back of my truck bed or left wet in a wader bag in a dark corner? Hmm. Some folks go as far as buying a boot dryer, but outside of guiding in Alaska, I have not found that to be necessary.
Conclusion
Wading boots are an investment in your passion. They are not the cheapest item that you need to buy, and they are one of those items that you might want to consider going for the best that you can afford. A solid pair of boots can have a huge impact on a day, week or season of fishing. A nice, comfortable pair of wading boots can provide so much to an experience. You don't notice your boots unless they are not performing like you want them to. You certainly notice uncomfortable boots, boots that slide on grass or rocks, or boots that are not supportive. An investment in good wading boots is an investment that will increase your enjoyment of this activity that we all love.
